There is a new pump, it is more efficient, powerful and quiet compared to the old pump.. it fixes the problem of the old pump in relation to sporadic lack of power and electromagnetic interference... it is enough to keep the pump to the very low minimum, increase the power if you need to lift a component misplaced on the solder-past...
Please connect the 2 electro-valves like in the picture

The PSE-22 arrives to you with the main parts preassembled... The remaining assembling is an easy operation, but the calibration requires some attention. To facilitate the operations I created a video, it should be clear enough and it will guide you step-by-step... The necessary tools are provided.

All the software that you may need is freeware open source. You don’t need a powerful computer; I use a notebook that I bought in 2008. Don’t worry, there are videos for all the steps you need to take…

To use the PSE-22 you need 1 program: UGS, available for Windows, Linux and Apple,  NOW THE ONLY SOFTWARE NEEDED IS UGS 2.015.

The PSE-22 is controlled by 2 Arduino boards. The main board (an Arduino UNO R3) controls the movements of the X-Y axis and the rotation of the stylus. The other board is an Arduino NANO mounted on a PickSoEasy board, it controls the Z movement.

The firmware installed on the UNO is GRBL 1.1F. It lets us use the gamepad and the centroid files. GRBL is also optimized for the laser module in case you want to use it. GRBL is the firmware created for Arduino to control the motion of CNC machines… GRBL use the simple GCODE programming language

Programs required to use the PSE-22 as pick and place machine

• UGS Platform: A full featured gcode platform used for interfacing with advanced CNC controllers like Arduino-GRBL-based and others. This program converts our GAMEPAD inputs in GCODE commands. It also manages our centroids files to send the machine to the pads of your board. (Available for Windows, Linux and Apple). It doesn't need to be installed. You put the folder somewhere and we will create a link to the program later.
  
  Download UGS Platform (2.015 tested and working)
  https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender#downloads

 

The guys working on UGS are doing a great job. Joacim in particular is adding some functionalities to the software to fit our needs.

This program is completely free! But it definitely worths a small donation to the programmer, Joacim Breiler.

 

UGS can import EagleCAD centroids files. You can move among components positions.
In the ACTION DESINGER for the right joystick button you can select "jog machine to next" Then because we don't have anymore buttons on the gamepad You could select 3 key on the keyboard to SELECT PREVIOUS - SELECT NEXT - JOG TO CENTER i used the arrows left right and down (but before you have to delete in the MAPCARACHTER the previous mapping for those keys...

This will be shown later in the video PSE-22. All within UGS.  

 

 

Program required to create centroid files

• A Spreadsheet Software: I use Excel, but any freeware spreadsheet can be used to convert your centroid file into a file that we can give to UGS. Few clicks are enough… A video will be shown later, in "How to create a centroid file" session...

 

Programs required to use the optional LASER MODULE

• Inkscape: A powerful, free design tool. We use this to convert our board layer cream file, exported from our cad program (like Eagle CAD), into a file that can be chewed by LaserWeb, (a program that will convert that file to a GCODE file usable by our machine). (Available for Windows, Linux and Apple).
  https://inkscape.org/release/
• LaserWeb: It generates GCODE from DXF/SVG/BITMAP/JPG/PNG files for our LASER MODULE.
  It is super because it allows us to change the power and the speed of the laser for each single shape in the board… This is very important because to make our stencil, some small shapes in our board require different power and speed… as it is explained in a video later.
  Further more, not all DXF files are the same, more later...
  (Available for Windows, Linux and Apple).
  https://github.com/LaserWeb/LaserWeb4-Binaries/releases
• laserGRBL: Even though LaserWeb can be used also to cut with our Laser Module, I prefer to cut with LaserGrbl… it is very easy and it is configurable, on YouTube there are many tutorials… (plus I’ll make an instruction video) . Only for Windows so if you need to use Mac or Linux cut with LaserWeb.
  https://lasergrbl.com/download/

You need to configure the macros and the joystick session in order to use the GAMEPAD. This video will guide you through these simple steps of the configuration. Watch it and then download the UGS configuration files which contains the macros and the gamepad buttons mapping.

A centroid file is a simple text file containing the coordinate of each single component of your board. The coordinates are in relation to the origin of the board reporting the X and Y distance to the center of the the component. To use the centroid file with the PSE-22 you need to edit it using a spreadsheet software, I use Excel but you can find free programs on INTERNET, like OpenOffice, spread32 and others.... The first step is to get the centroid file from your CAD program.
I've an old version of Eagle (6.6), it is enough for what I need. If you use Altium, Allegro or others you need to Google a little. To create the centroid file (in Eagle): in the board window click on File then on Run ULP... look for mountsmd.ulp. Save it where you want, it will create 2 files one for the bottom side (name.mnb) and one for the top (name.mnt) you can open it with the notepad or better with Notepad++ (free program) Now that you have the centroid file you need to edit it in order to use it with the PSE-22. Down there is a video that will show you the entire operation, from Eagle to Excel.

This GAMEPAD can work in 3 modes:

 

• Controller XBOX 360 for Windows (the mode that we are going to use). LED 1 and 2 ON
• PS3/PC Gamepad. LED 1 and 3 ON
• Android Gamepad. LED 1 and 4 ON

 

The Gamepad that you receive should already be set to XBox 360 mode because I assemble and test the machine before to ship. In case you need to change the mode:
Connect the gamepad to a USB port. In the Windows search field (bottom left corner) write game, then click on Setup USB Game Controller. If you don't read Controller (Xbox 360 for Windows) you need to change mode.

 

 

To do this press for about 7 seconds the the central button (Home button in my drawing) keep pressing until you see the change in the small windows.

 

If the gamepad is already in XBOX 360 for Windows mode and you are in Windows 10, there is one more things you need to do. Normally in Windows 10 the central button (Home button in my drawing) triggers the XBOX Game Bar. We don't want this, we need to use that button... we need to change a setting in Windows 10. (Windows 7 is already OK) In the Windows search field (bottom left corner) write XBOX, then click on Enable Xbox Game Bar or Game Bar Controller Setting. When the next window appears uncheck the checkbox Open Xbox Game Bar using... Pay attention, in my Windows 10 the central button was triggering the Xbox Game Bar even though the checkbox was not checked... so I checked it, closed the windows setting, reopened it again and unchecked the checkbox... problem fixed...

 

 

Before using any game controller you need to calibrate it.

 

In the Game controller window click on properties, a new window will open. Select the Setting tab, then click on Calibrate and follow the instruction. GAMEPAD MAPPING

 

All the movements are mapped on the game-pad by UGS. Down a list of the controls. If you want to change the configuration it is possible to do it. To do it, check the video All Within UGS. (Note: L3 and R3 are buttons over the sticks.) The A and Y activate on the Arduino shield the pins Spindle on and off, but the result is that the Z axis will move continuously UP or DOWN till stopped by the limit switches or by the HOME button. To "digitally" control the Z movement I use the digital outputs Cooler enabled and Spindle direction in the Arduino Shield... This combination of 2 bits is sent by a cable from the Arduino shield to the Z control board (the left one), and lets the stylus go up, down (continuously or by small steps) or stop... NOTE: In the Arduino Shield I use the Z axis connector to control the Rotation of the Stylus: that connector goes to the stylus rotation stepper motor. The Z axis movement (stylus UP and DOWN) is controlled by the smaller green board on the left and not by the Arduino.

 

The picture below show the real effect of the mapping: what each button will perform on the PSE-22
In Windows 7 you may need to install the driver for the gamepad

 

 

Now, about the videos: the first was created before UGS was fully integrated to the PSE-22. At that time 2 other programs were necessary: Antimicro and AutoHotKey. They are no longer necessary. So refer to the first video only to understand which button to press and hot use the gamepad. This is after the minute 1:45. The title of the second video is: ALL WITHIN UGS. Refer to this video to understand how to set the gamepad and use centroid files.

If you have already watched the other videos in the manual you have the necessary knowledge to follow this. If you haven't, you need to read and watch the videos in the other sessions of the manual... Wathcing this video consider that now UGS is the only program needed. The video was created before UGS was fully integrated to the PSE-22. So Antimicro and AutoHotKey are no longer necessary.
In the following video you will see how to calibrate the microscopes and how to add to your centroids files the position of the components in the rack to be picked up. Then you will see a real work scenario... It is assumed that you trained to use the gamepad to control the PSE-22.

We will see 2 cases, we start with the easier one: preparing a file to cut a shape on a 3mm acrylic board.... Then we will progress creating a file for a 0.12mm mylar foil to make a stencil. That is more difficult. While cutting a 3 mm board requires a single setting for speed and power, for a stencil you need different powers and speeds in relation to the dimensions and shape of the SMD pads. This is something I found out by many mistakes... I couldn't understand why when a setting seemed to be perfect it was not working for all SMD footprints.... After we got the right setting for some pads we make groups with different settings in relation to our tests...

 

So first we familiarize with the programs with this simple case (I assume you already looked at the second chapter in the guide: Software needed), cutting the acrylic board.

 

Preparing a file to cut a shape on a 3mm (or more) acrylic board
In this case I need to cut on a 3mm acrylic board the limit switch supports for the PSE-22 Z axis. I've drawn it with Illustrator, but no matter the software you used, the next step is to import the file in Inkscape to prepare it for LaserWeb, in order to generate the GCODE file to be used in LaserGRBL. Watch this video...
When you have done you can go to the paragraph Using the laser module to see how to use this file. Then come back here to check how to create a file needed to cut a 0.12 mm or 0.2 mm mylar foil to make a stencil: from Eagle to LASER..

Notes about safety and materials

 

When you use the laser wear always the protective glasses I've given with the module.

 

Even if the laser can cut many materials, some of these are not safe: they produce very toxic fumes or can catch fire...

 

I mainly cut Acrylic, Mylar and sometimes wood and leather... Furthermore I use the PSE-22 to engrave a greater sort of different materials...

 

Before to use the laser module, align the material to the green mat, and even what you cut should be aligned to the lines of the mat. The grid in the mat is 1 cm with the segmented lines signing the half centimeter.

 

Open the windows and and ventilate the room, better if you have a fan, don't let the fumes go on the lens...

 

I leave the room to go back to check every 2 to 5 minutes... Don't let paper or other things free to fly under the lens with the risk to catch fire...

 

These are some plastics safe to cut:

• Acrylic
• Mylar
• Delrin
• Kapton foils
• Kapton foils

NOT safe to cut:

• PVC
• ABS plastics
• Coated carbon fiber

 

The laser I provide is 5.5W output, real optical cutting power... sometime the power you read is the power the device absorbs, not in my case... 5.5W allows you to cut many materials of a consistent thickness... I used also to cut 5mm Acrylic. I provide a 12V - 10W power supply, it is enough for this laser, but if you want to upgrade and take a more powerful laser you should take a bigger power supply.

 

There are many ways to set the focus, you should Google a little and find the way that better works for you... I usually focus on something that is little less thick than the board I want to cut, and I use a white paper. Then using the protective glasses i try to make the smaller point i can on the paper...

 

I use a thiner board to have the best focus on about the center of the board I want to cut. So if I want to cut a 3mm board I will focus on the surface of a 2 mm board...

 

For mylar the strategy is to use a very low power: from 3 to 6.5% (for 0.12 mm thickness) and a relatively moderate speed... speed (feed) from 300 to 500 mm/min

 

For acrylic high power and slow speed produce the best results, a power form 60 to 100 % and a speed from 140 to 200 mm/min

 

For different materials and different thickness you should find the right combination Power / Speed

 

If you see no fumes but smoke it means the power is too high for that speed...

 

Just a note: in gcode for GRBL 1.1 the power go from S0 (0%) to s1000 (100%), so 6.5% in GCODE is S65. When you will use LaserWeb you don't have to worry about that.. but don't be surprised when reading the Gcode you will see values with 1 more 0 (40% = S400) If you arrived to this point I assume you have already read the other paragraphs in the manual, you have installed and configured the necessary software and watched the videos about preparing the files to be used with the laser machine. If not, please go back and acquire the necessary knowledge. Cutting our acrylic board using the files previously created.
I cut on an acrylic board of 2 to 5 mm. You need to change speed and power of the laser module.
You have created the file following the instructions and videos in the previous paragraph, so now you are ready to cut.
To learn how to cut using LaserGRBL watch this video..